A History of Cosmetics, Part 3
The cosmetics craze continued to flourish into the 1900s, laying the foundation for the modern beauty industry. During this period, some of the earliest commercial cosmetic enterprises emerged, reshaping how women approached beauty and self-care. One of the earliest players was Mrs. Henning’s House of Cyclax in London, which sold a range of beauty products. Many of these types of products are still available today through major global brands such as Avon.
Another influential figure in the early cosmetics scene was Helena Rubinstein. Initially starting with a simple facial cream designed to protect women’s skin from the sun, her product line soon expanded to include lipstick, face powder, and a variety of skin treatments. Her success led to the creation of a full cosmetic empire that significantly shaped the industry we know today.
As the years went on, the popularity of beauty salons continued to rise. In 1909, the department store Selfridges revolutionized the industry by openly selling cosmetics over the counter. This was a major cultural shift—until then, makeup had been viewed as something used only by performers or women of "questionable" character. The accessibility of makeup in a retail setting allowed more women to confidently embrace beauty products, leading to changing social norms around personal grooming.
In the early 20th century, artistic movements had a considerable influence on fashion and makeup. When the Russian ballet toured London, it brought with it dramatic, colorful aesthetics that inspired fashion designers like Paul Poiret. Poiret introduced a more vibrant and theatrical look to women’s clothing and makeup. For the first time, the idea of permanent cosmetics emerged—women could tattoo lipstick and eye shadow directly onto their faces. Though not widely adopted, this marked a significant moment in cosmetic innovation.
The 1930s ushered in a trend toward darker lipstick shades, offering women more variety and a sense of individuality through their makeup choices. However, during World War II, the cosmetics industry faced significant challenges. Raw materials were in short supply, and many women experienced what was referred to as a "make-down" period, limiting their use of beauty products. Yet, this lull was short-lived. As soon as the war ended, demand for cosmetics surged more than ever before. New manufacturers entered the market, competing fiercely to satisfy the desires of the female consumer.
From the 1950s onward, the industry continued to boom. Technological advances led to more sophisticated formulations, improved packaging, and targeted marketing. Women were no longer just consumers—they became central to the development and evolution of beauty culture. Innovations such as waterproof mascara, long-lasting lipstick, and hypoallergenic formulations made beauty more practical and inclusive.
Today, the global beauty industry is worth hundreds of billions of dollars and offers an overwhelming array of choices to suit every skin tone, style, and preference. From high-end luxury brands to affordable drugstore options, the legacy of early cosmetic pioneers lives on in the variety and accessibility of modern products.
Modern consumers benefit from decades of innovation, trial, and error. Whether you prefer natural makeup looks or bold, dramatic styles, the choices are limitless. The impact of cultural, technological, and social changes continues to influence makeup trends today. Even during economic downturns, cosmetics remain one of the most resilient industries—a testament to their emotional and cultural importance.
So, the next time you reach for your favorite lipstick or moisturizer, remember the generations of women before you who contributed to the evolution of beauty as we know it. They, too, had days when applying makeup felt like a chore—but their collective passion helped shape the vibrant, diverse, and empowering beauty landscape we enjoy today.