A History of Cosmetics, Part 2
For centuries after the Egyptian empire declined, pale skin became the global beauty standard. A sun-kissed complexion was often associated with laborers who worked outdoors, while noblewomen stayed indoors and maintained pale, untanned faces. A white complexion wasn't just fashionable—it was a visible sign of wealth and social status. If you had the luxury to avoid outdoor work, your skin showed it.
To achieve this ideal, men and women applied a powdered blend of hydroxide, lead oxide, and carbonate to their skin. Unfortunately, this concoction frequently led to lead poisoning, a serious and sometimes deadly side effect. Despite its dangers, the look remained popular until the 19th century.
Thankfully, chemists of the 1800s developed a safer alternative—zinc oxide. This breathable, non-toxic compound offered the same whitening effect without the harmful consequences. Zinc oxide remains a staple ingredient in modern cosmetic products, from foundations to sunscreens.
As the 20th century dawned, especially during the Edwardian era in London, elite society women were focused more than ever on looking youthful. With access to disposable income, they hosted glamorous parties and were expected to be the most radiant woman in the room. However, their lifestyles—often filled with poor nutrition, lack of exercise, and exposure to polluted urban air—took a toll on their skin.
To combat aging and blemishes, these women turned to anti-aging creams, face lotions, and cosmetic treatments. However, vanity was still a private affair. Visiting a beauty salon wasn't as open or socially acceptable as it is today. Women would sneak into the back entrances of salons to avoid being seen.
One of the most renowned beauty establishments of the time was the House of Cyclax, owned by Mrs. Henning. This salon discreetly offered creams, rouges, and potions to women desperate to conceal the effects of aging. Mrs. Henning’s custom formulations became iconic among upper-class clients who relied on her expertise to maintain their youthful appearance in secrecy.
From hazardous lead-based powders to luxurious creams behind closed doors, the journey of cosmetics has always reflected society’s complex relationship with beauty, class, and age.